Ok, if you’re new to bespoke suiting this might sound a bit technical so let’s get that out of the way first of all; GM simply means grams. So, when you hear your tailor talking about GM, he basically means the weight of the fabric.

The next thing then is to look at how the weight of the fabric affects the comfort and drape of your suit. The trick here is not to get hung up on the detail but to think in more general terms about each of the fabrics on offer. It can seem quite daunting at first due to the sheer number of suiting fabrics available, but your tailor is there to advise you and try to whittle down your fabric choices to something manageable.

So, let’s look at some of the most popular suiting fabrics.


Light fabrics weigh up to 230 GM

Light/medium fabrics weigh 240 – 290 GM

Heavy fabrics weigh 300 GM + 


Lighter fabrics such as linen and cotton are great for summer suits when you want to stay cool and comfortable, but here we’re going to look at the benefits of the heavier fabrics such as wool.

High GM fabrics are great for maintaining the silhouette and natural drape of your suit as they hold their shape more readily as there is little room for wrinkles and creases to appear. So, heavier fabrics are more suited to a sleek, sharp look that will hold throughout the day. The most popular high GM suiting fabric is wool. The wool comes in a range of weights depending on the thickness of the weave but is generally considered a heavier fabric and is ideal for a business suit that needs to hold its shape. Of course, the heavier the fabric the warmer the suit will be so it’s best to talk to your tailor about how and where you plan to wear the suit. Your tailor might advise you to choose a cotton suit of you’re going to be wearing the suit in the heat of the midday sun. Or he might advise you to go for a wool-cotton blend so you get the best of both worlds.

At Exclusive Tailors in Phuket, our expert tailors are always on hand to discuss your specific requirements and to advise you on the best choice of fabric for your bespoke made suit.

For details check out the fabrics page of our website or drop us an email. We’re still open for online business and with our video measuring guides, you can take your own measurements and get your custom-tailored suit delivered to your home. It’s the closest you can get to the tailoring experience in these crazy times. And it’ll have you set up to step out in style once this is all over.

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