Like everything in fashion, how you button your suit jacket has rules which you need to know to stay stylish and show off your bespoke suit to its absolute best. The rules on suit buttoning date back to the 1900s and the court of King Edward VII of England. The monarch was a big foodie and, being king, meant he ate what he wanted, when he wanted, and he developed into a man of very large build. So, for no other reason than comfort, the king wore his suit jacket with the buttons undone. His subjects did the same and it became the way to wear a suit. Completely unintentionally, suit buttoning rules became a thing.

So, what are the rules? Well, it depends to a certain degree on the number of buttons you have and follows a basic pattern of ‘Sometimes, always, never.’ So, let’s take a look at the variations:

Suit Jackets with ONE Button:

This one’s pretty straightforward. If you’re standing, the button should be done up. If you’re seated, it should be undone. Leaving a button done up while sitting down makes movement awkward and makes the suit look too tight.

Suit Jackets with TWO Buttons:

The two-button jacket is becoming increasingly popular and again the rules are pretty simple. Always do the to button up, never do the bottom one up. If you fasten the bottom button, the jacket will look tight around the hips and your whole silhouette will appear unbalanced. When sitting down, both buttons should be undone.

Suit Jackets with THREE Buttons:

This is full-on ‘Sometimes, always, never’ working from top to bottom. The middle button should always remain buttoned-up, the middle button is a personal choice and the bottom one is never fastened. As a general rule, suit jackets with a flat lapel allow buttoning of the top button but where the lapel roll extends beyond the top button, it should be left undone.

Double-Breasted Suit Jackets:

The most common to wear a double-breasted suit jacket is to fasten all functional buttons but, again leaving the bottom button undone can be more comfortable and allows greater mobility. Whether seated or standing, all (except the bottom) buttons should be buttoned otherwise the fabric will flop to the front and look untidy.

How you button your suit is another of those little details that elevate your look. We all look at celebrities arriving at awards ceremonies or premieres and are wowed by how they look so stylish, and if you look closely, you’ll see that it’s because their suit is tailormade and they have paid attention to every detail. And there’s no reason why you can’t look just as suave.

At Exclusive Tailor in Phuket, we specialize in making bespoke suiting affordable and accessible to everybody. No matter where you are in the world you can view or range of suits, use our measuring guide to upload all your measurements, and have a bespoke-made suit delivered to your door. Or, if you’re visiting Phuket, you can come in and see us at our store on Bangla Road, Patong Beach. 

Translate »