10 Techniques that every stylish gentleman should be able to master

You’ve been in the situation, we’re sure. Imagine the situation. You are on your way to a meeting with the boss, in line for a big promotions, but then it happens; you can’t get your tie to hold. While fixing that, you also notice a massive crease in your shirt sleeve, not to mention the scuff on your dress shoes. What a mess. You just don’t have the 30 minutes that it takes to shine them up. There it goes, the chance for the big promotion, right? Well, not necessarily. At least it won’t be because of your outfit. Most of the essential skills that gents need in order to look their best are actually quite quick and easy to pull off. In this article you’ll find the 10 most fundamental style skills that every gent should be able to master. If you manage to do this, then these tricks will help you put out “style-fires” before they even have the chance to get a foothold.

 

Technique number 1: The Half-Windsor Tie Knot

Half-what, you may find asking yourself? The Half-Windsor is just one of so many tie knots you could learn to master. The Half-Windsor is a medium-sized tie know that forms a symmetrical triangle on your neck. That however doesn’t make the necktie look too flashy, but still business appropriate. Since the Half-Windsor is smaller than a full Windsor knot, it’s compatible with a button-down-, medium spread- or a pointed collar on a dress shirt. A Half-Windsor is relatively quick and easy to tie. Just begin with the wide end that is longer than the narrow end. Take the wide end and cross it over the narrow end, going under and up through the neck opening, thereafter slip it through the loop you just formed. Hold on to the narrow end and push the knot up towards your neck. Does that sound confusing? Try it out for yourself, practice it, and very soon this will become an automatic practice as easy as tying your shoes.

 

Technique Number 2: The perfect necktie dimple

Not every gent can put up a smile and show off the attractive dimples of theirs. For a dimple-less face make use of necktie dimples. These wonders really help with adding more character to your formal and casual outfits by showing off to the world what attention to detail you master.
Start off by tying whatever tie knot you favour. Thereafter, right before you pull down to tighten it at the end, simply take the fingers and pinch the material of the knot in order to create a sort of a “W”-shape. With that set in place, the dimple stays hidden away – all day, every day.

 

Technique Number 3: The Parisian scarf knot

Scarves can be tricky, we’ll give you that. While they are supposed to help keeping you warm during winter times when you’re carrying out your business outside, you wouldn’t want them ending up being placed around your neck clumsily or pulled too tightly like a snake, squeezing the last breath out of you. All of the scarf-wearing gents out there therefore should learn the Parisian knot, as it is an easy-peasy knot that helps your scarf to be perfectly functional and stylish at the same time. No more tangles, no more loose ends to worry about. You can choose to tie the Parisian knot for a long wool scarf to get the best results. Simply fold the scarf in half lengthwise, hold the looped end with one hand, and the two loose ends with the other. Then wrap the scarf around your neck, threading the loose ends of the scarf through the loop. Lastly, pull them down to secure the know, and Voila, the Parisian knot. Neat, warm and charming.

 

Technique Number 4: Shine up your shoes

Yes, it seems like a pretty straightforward task to do, yet many get this wrong still. To shine up your shoes, take a brush and gently brush off the dirt of the dress shoes. If you choose to skip this step, you’re risking your shoes to seal the dirt in, and also harmful chemicals will apply onto the leather. Take a good horsehair brush for the best results, clean out the dirt, grime and remove old shoe polish residue. After that, proceed with the polishing (use an old white cloth).
For the best shoe-shining, do small circular strokes. After finishing that process, buff the shoes using the brush once more, and maintain a light pressure while doing so. This allows the new polish to come out looking as consistent as possible.

 

Technique Number 5: Remember to iron your dress shirt

You probably won’t come across anyone that truly loves ironing shirts, but if you truly care about style, this is a necessary evil. You know it is important, so you better stop procrastinating and get it done. Ironing is all routine that just takes a bit of getting used to. Simply turn on the iron with the appropriate heat setting, pour in distilled water, and get started with the back of the collar. Then the sleeves and then the back (you may need to reposition the shirt a few times for this). To prevent creases, smooth the fabric, spray distilled water to do the tougher ones. The next step are the shoulders before finally turning the shirt over to the front part. Iron the buttons and pockets very carefully. As the very last step, do the front collar and you’re done. To avoid any unpleasant surprises, make sure not to overheat the iron. There are different temperatures for cotton, silk, wools and dress shirts made from synthetic material.

 

Technique Number 6: Master the sleeve roll technique

The sleeve roll technique is essential. It does the job perfectly and makes sure that the sleeve stays where it is supposed to be. Your arms will still have room to move naturally and even unrolling the sleeve is a very quick thing to get done, when needed to. On top of that, if you happen to own a chambray or flannel shirt, this is the perfect way to crank up your casual style a bit. To get the sleeve roll done right, simply pull the cuff up to your arm. All that’s left after that is to roll back the sleeve so it solely exposes the top end of the cuff. This is all you need in order to keep your modified sleeve style neat and secure.

 

Technique Number 7: How to keep your dress shirt tucked in

It doesn’t really matter how well a dress shirt fits you, as if it ends up suddenly going untucked, it would do you any good. Even worse is when that happens in front of your colleagues, clients, or far worse, a lovely women that you happen to be talking to. You might just push the dress shirt back into your pants from different sides, but yeah, that will look awkward no matter how smooth you think you’re pulling this off. Okay, you could try to distract her, but chances for that to be a success is pretty slim to non-existing. So, what is the solution to that? Invest in a shirt stay and start getting used to be wearing them. With their strong elastic tension they lock your dress shirt into place the entire time. You’ll even forget that you’re using one, as the day progresses. There are 4 different versions of shirt stays, each doing their job in the same way. Once you have invested in one, untucked dress shirts will become a myth from the past.

 

Technique Number 8: Learn to fold a suit jacket

Imagine this. You’re flying out through the door, on the way to a big conference. Big names, the who is who of your company or an event where semi-celebrities are showing up. Either way, you should not let a wrinkled and poorly packed suit ruin what could potentially become a life-changing experience. Here’s a quick tutorial on how to properly fold a suit jacket:

1. Turn one shoulder inside out
2. Put the other shoulder inside the gap
3. Fold the jacket in half lengthwise
4. Load it in your suitcase or travel bag

 

Technique Number 9: Master the Presidential pocket square fold

Pocket squares are a small detail, yet a very powerful one. A pocket square often is what makes you stand out in a room full of suits and ties and adds an edge to the look. The pocket square does that. Here’s how to fold the simple, yet stylish Presidential pocket square fold:

1. Keep folding the square in half until it fits in the breast pocket of your jacket
2. Allow only a small part of the pocket square to be sticking out of the top of the pocket
3. If it doesn’t happen to fit in yet, fold the pocket square once more until it does.

 

Technique Number 10: The two-second T-Shirt fold technique

This one we add last, as we admittedly are no big fans of T-Shirts. Yet, we can’t get around this tip, as it actually is a very important one, if you’re wearing T-Shirts on a regular basis, and hey, most gents out there are. Folding T-Shirt won’t be any easier or more time-efficient than with this method, trust us.

First step is to lay out the T-Shirt flat to remove any wrinkles. Next up, visualise two lines:
1. a horizontal line across the middle and
2. a vertical line which cuts between the neck and left sleeve.

 

The two lines intersect to create a point A, with points B and C being the top and bottom endpoints of the vertical line. Place yourself on the right side of your T-Shirt and pinch point A gently using your left hand. Make sure that you’re grabbing both the front and back layers here.
Next up, pinch point B using your right hand, then bring down point B to point C. Then uncross your arms and lay the T-Shirt with the face (or print) down on the table. Fold in half in order to expose the front, and here you have it – a neatly folded T-Shirt. With a little practice – you’ll become very fast at this practice in no time.

Hands down, you may think now, if all those skills really matter. We say, yes, definitely. Not just solely for bragging rights or being a man, but they also prove that you don’t just care about style on surface level, but a very deep one instead.
If you master how to tie a Half-Windsor, how to put on scarves or pocket squares, how to iron your shirts and fold your jackets, you’re not simply a guy that can dress well. Instead, you are someone who embraces style – and the discipline that comes with it. That kind of discipline benefits both your professional and personal life. So gentlemen, let’s all aim to live in style.


The Do’s and Dont’s Style Tips for Tall Gents

This guide is for the taller gents out there. It aims to help you get inspired for dressing elegantly for men over 183 cm (6 feet). Let’s dive right into it.

The challenge that comes with being tall

If you happen to be among on of the taller gents, you know the struggle. Taller gents have a lot of advantages, but in terms of style and fashion to many other things, they often get treated poorly. From compact cars to airlines with decreasingly leg room, taller gents often aren’t considered at all, and when it comes to shopping, there’s no exception. Off-the-rack clothing tends to be designed with shorter gents in mind, and when we say shorter, we mean gents that are below 183 cm. (6 feet). For those that happen to be above that, they’ll know the struggle of wrists beginning to poke out from from the shirt cuffs and the ankles beginning to show. Not features that you’d like to highlight, as Dress Shirts easily get untucked, socks slide down and shoes above a size 15 are hard to find anywhere. Being a tall gents certainly has advantages, but shopping for the more elegant, well-fitting type of clothing can turn out to become quite the challenge. The point in dressing well as tall gents isn’t necessarily to hide your height altogether, but instead, like any other body type, the goal of dressing for a tall gents, is to look proportional and elegant. A larger gent just has to work a little harder than one of an average height gent has to. Mainstream clothes just aren’t designed with you in mind. We know, it’s not fair.
Clothes should always have an appropriate length and fit according to your proportions. That also includes hems, shirt cuffs, shoulders, pant rise and jacket length – to only mention a few. The patterns, the textures and colours should be used to support the overall look in a way that doesn’t exaggerate or overemphasise the height. The overall goal of that is quite simple – looking good!

The Style Do’s for Tall gents:

• DO use layers to add depth and dimension
• DO embrace the odd combination
• DO choose belts over braces
• DO embrace bolder types of shoes
• DO get everything you buy altered to your size
• DO invest in made-to-measure and bespoke clothing
• DO buy long-length ties
• DO buy over-the-calf socks

The Style DONT’s for Tall gents:

• DON’T wear bold, vertical stripes
• DON’T wear shorts and short-sleeved shirts together
• DON’T wear low-rise pants
• DON’T wear solid, dark suits or two solids together
• DON’T wear anything if it’s too short

The Conclusion:

We could add a lot of depth to this article, but this one is aimed for you cross off when shopping. If you need one of these points elaborated, please feel free to get in touch with us, so we can guide you through the entire process from style mess to true master of style and fashion according to your own preferences and height. We hope that this guide has helped you getting some ideas on how to get the best results out of buying new clothes, so you can look and feel confident at all times. If you are a tall gents and have some tips to share, please also feel free to contact us, so we can convey them to some of the other tall gents reading our blog.


The 3 main advantages of the 3 piece suit

As a frequent reader to our blog, you may have noticed already, that we often mention 3-piece suits. That is not accidental, but there of course lays a reason behind, just like with anything in life. It is our firm belief that a gent should at least own one classic and timeless suit, and nothing beats a three-piece suit when it comes to wearing a truly traditional look.

This article will focus on the top 3 advantages of wearing a bespoke 3 piece suit.

The feel of a 3-piece suit

If you have worn a three-piece suit before, you will most likely approve that the feel of wearing one, especially when it is a custom-tailored one, really is beyond match.

Even if you haven’t you will be able to acknowledge how logical this fact is, in just a minute. What separates the 3-piece suit from a 2-piece variant is, not surprisingly – the third peace! Well, that probably didn’t knoch you off the chair, but with a waistcoat added to the look you’ll instantly transform into a successful-looking gentleman. It is absolute crucial to have your waistcoat following the contour of your body perfectly, so you may want to consider getting this custom-tailored instead of the off-the rack alternatives you’ll find in retail stores around the globe. The feel you have from this is just being more held in place or more held together. Gents, think of when you hit that baseball diamond or the football field with, or without your jock. That’s the difference in feel. A custom-tailored waistcoat also adds a slimming look, even though it is considered an extra layer. It shows a strong balance of fabric, all the way from your shoulders and down to your shoes. Finally, it is important to think about how it would actually make YOU feel, personally.
When you unbutton your jacket (single breasted) as you take a seat, you’re still buttoned up (your vest/waistcoat) which still gives you that distinguished look, you don’t need to worry about how tightly tucked your shirt is – your waistcoat handles it for you.
When you stand, and your hands are on your hips, or in your pockets and your jacket flaps are back again, you still appear suited up and in charge. These are undoubtedly some of the subtle but impacting style marks you make wearing your three piece suits. You remain put together at all times!

The fit of a 3-piece suit

When talking about the fit, which we’ll cover in this second point, it should be mentioned that the major focus needs to be the waistcoat/vest. It should slide down the sides of your body sleek with no protrusions, lumps, or anything else. You need to make sure it’s still breathable and comfortable and tailored properly, it shouldn’t act like a corset – it should be a well-tailored vest.
One very important aspect to the fit that also plays into your overall style with this piece, is the collar type you choose for your vest. We currently offer the notch, peak, and shawl lapel options for our custom-tailored vests with all our three piece suits. Collars and lapels help to define a man’s face, whether they’re on a dress shirt, a suit jacket or a vest, and if you wear this vest alone with no jacket lapels, then you should have some on your vest to help define your face. Since the fit of most three piece suits are a bit more snug especially around the belt line, belts with this suit are not entirely needed and can make you look a bit puffy around your waistline. The choice is yours, of course. Remember these hints regarding the fit of your three piece suits, and you will have your suit the suit among suits.

The fashion of a 3-piece suit

When it comes to what statement this suit makes, or even better yet what you can do with it, where you can wear it or even how you can wear it, the options are plentiful. Three piece suits give every man the the following options: You can wear the vest alone with a button down and jeans, you can wear the vest with another two piece suit as long as the colors and fabrics are complementing each other, you can wear the suit as a two piece and leave the vest at home, you can also wear it with a pair of jeans and a blazer, you can wear it to the office, events, and formal events. You can also wear this suit with or without a tie, the only thing I would mention is to always keep it buttoned otherwise the slimming and proper gentleman persona it provides will slip away.


Top 5 suit patterns – All you need to know about suit patterns

Since we’ve covered the fact that custom-tailored suits make for a far better choice compared to off-the rack alternatives, we also need to talk about the difference in the suit patterns there is to have. You see many suits, many of which have different patterns. Variety is good, variety is crucial. Suits are worn often (or should be), whether that is for dinner parties, events, wedding, business meetings and much more. Having a good understanding of what suit fabrics work best for what events and for what type of weather is key.
That is what this article wants to achieve.
Generally, patterned suits are ideally suited for more casual, informal events compared to solid colored suits. But, just like wine, everyone has a different palate, more so when it comes to style.

Here are the top 5 suit patterns there is to be had and chosen when it comes to bespoke clothing.

Glen Check Plaids

Possibly the most common of all plaid suit patterns is the glen check plaid. This was originally known as the Glen Urquhart Plaid which stemmed from the valley in Scotland named “Glenurquhart” in Inverness-shire. Around 1926 is when the newer name of Glen Check Plaid surfaced, which was made popular by the Duke of Windsor, when he was the Prince of Wales. It is probably the most produced of all plaid suit patterns today and due to its timeless history and it will probably remain so for quite some time.

The Tartan Plaid

The Tartan plaid is more of a louder style of plaid suit pattern that usually encompasses multiple colors. Those colors can be more earth-toned at times, and then also less subdued as well. In America most tartan is called and known as just “plaid”, but in Scotland a “tartan” cloth is usually an accessory for most kilts, which is hung over the shoulder or on the bed as a blanket. This suit pattern also originates from Scotland where many plaid patterns were born.

The Graph Check

Unlike that of any custom dress shirt, the graph check men’s suit pattern is quite difficult to actually see. It is quite small and very intricate. Most suits with this pattern can sometimes be mistaken for solid color suits, since their stitching is so close, that it’s hard to make out the check pattern in the fabric. If you’re looking for suit patterns that are close to solid colors, but with just a dash of something else, this would be our recommendation.

The Chalk Stripe

A little bit thicker than its extremely well known counter-part the pinstripe, the Chalk Stripe suit pattern boasts a strong demand for attention. It is usually the size most men are looking for in the pinstripe, but don’t realize the pinstripe is a little less wide, and a little less “in your face”, if you will.

However, while the pinstripe can be worn to certain formal events, the chalk stripe is a bit too loud for such gatherings. The chalk stripe can come in multiple suit fabrics like wool or a wool/silk blends depending on the climate of where you live, you should give yourself choices.

The Madras Plaid

The madras plaid is one of the most well known and most commonly seen suit patterns that few know the name of. It once originated from East India, and this pattern is usually quite soft in appearance. With dress shirts it is usually made up of many different colors.
This style of plaid has been known to be a bit more on a the preppy side do to its relaxed and casual appearance.
If you choose the right fabric this pattern can be used in many different seasons.

That’s it this week

Don’t forget that If you liked what you read, or have any questions, please feel free to let us know! If you’d like to design your own custom-tailored suit from hundreds of fabric options get in touch with us, so we can start the process of designing your next custom-tailored garment already today!

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4 advantages of custom-tailored dress shirts

Custom dress-shirts are nowadays a standard part of your daily wear, but did you know that once it was considered as a privilege to wear them? Back in the days, and no, this is not the beginning of a story that your granddad would be telling you, costing you an hour of your life, earlier it was a style extravaganza that only the well-off individuals could afford to wear and/or, have tailored.

Since the dawn of custom dress-shirts (picture it, the awakening of the shirts), they helped the style-discerned gentleman with adding a dapper touch of style and the extra “wow factor” to celebrities, Wall Street bankers, and others, who were able to afford such a luxury.

Times have changed
Luckily, things have changed drastically since then. Even if you are not banking big money on Wall Street or happen to be a celebrity with healthy bank statements; nowadays most people can afford to dress well. There’s practically no limitation (or excuse) to not dress in style with a custom-tailored dress shirt, one that is crafted to your exact body measurements. This is where Exclusive Tailor comes into the picture. With clothing made from our tailor-shop in Patong, Phuket you’ll never have (or want to have) another excuse for not dressing in garments that are crafted to your exact body measurements. We’ve been in the “feel good in what you wear” industry since the 1980’s, and we’re passioned about it, so don’t expect us to end this tradition anytime soon.

Times and demands have changed, but so have means of delivery, and the globalization did the rest. Nowadays it is not uncommon to order a shirt online on our website, and expect it in your mailbox from 3 days to 2 weeks after the order was placed. It’s freshly sewn for you – and only you.

4 advantages of wearing a bespoke dress shirt
Before we dive all too much into how easy ordering is and how affordable it is to have garments custom-tailored, let’s focus on what this article is really about; 5 of the main advantages for you to be wearing custom-tailored dress shirts.

The price
Not surprisingly, we’ll cover the main concern of many potential customers here first, the price.

We highlight this because it is usually a large part in the decision making before deciding to buy anything these days. Throw away the old thought about custom wear being only for the big bankers on Wall Street, because our world renowned men’s custom dress shirts range from $50$. This comes with the choice of hundreds of fabric choices, contrast fabrics for cuffs, collars and sleeves, monogramming, and many other unprecedented design features. There’s in fact so much to choose from, that you may want to sit down and sip a complimentary drink first.
The price is also something that you can hardly find for off the rack shirts that won’t fit you half as well, let alone match our quality craftsmanship. Just saying.

The Fit

There’s no reason to go to a tailor, if not the fit is perfect. Nothing less goes. Even the price is then not a convincing factor. Custom-tailored clothes need to fit you 100% and they will be (well unless you cheated with your measurements). All our garments are crafted for one person only – and that is you. This arguably could be listed first but either way you look at it, fit is basically the reason anyone looks into custom clothing. If you’ve never gone this route before don’t worry, we have step by step instructional videos on our website. With that, it is quite difficult to get them wrong. If you ever feel uncertain about whether you’ve taken them correctly, feel free to call us, so we can guide you through the process.

The design

Another key aspect of opting for custom-tailored clothes from a tailor-shop is of course the abundance of design options you have. It’s not only a suit that is made to your exact body measurements, it’s also one that comes with all your unique design choices. There’s almost nothing that we can’t do, so try us. See if we’re up for the challenge. We definitely are. There’s very few things that we didn’t try before. Check for example our previous clients on our website and see the wide range of designs they left our shop with. You can design your cuffs, your pockets, your collars, your buttons, even your thread color. Vents are a part of it too, and who said monograms? We did! Everything that you think would look good on a shirt and that would compliment your body type, we can craft for you.
Our design options are countless and when you couple this with the fit, price, and quality we offer, our shirts are truly second to none.

The style, the look, the fame – the name of the game

Custom-tailored dress-shirts are all about style. From the customization of the sleeves to the contrast colors of your inner plackets, thread color and more – all is part of the style you are about to create – one for the new you!

Perhaps you noticed a specific pattern at Nordstrom’s or Macy’s that was three times the price, not custom fitted and off the rack. We ask the question, why pay three times the price for a lack in fit, when you can design the style of the shirt exactly as you desire, have it custom tailored to your bodies specific measurements, and spend less? Well, we don’t know either!
When it all boils down, what does custom clothing give you? It gives you a look that is like no other. Stand-alone unique style that was custom designed by you and custom fitted for you. If you want a better idea of what iTailor custom dress shirts look like in real life do yourself a favor and take a 5 minute look here.

That sums up this article. As usual, if you liked what you read here, or have any questions, please feel free to let us know, so we can cover it in one of our upcoming  articles.
If you’d like to design your very own custom dress shirts, please feel free to get in touch with us here.