Materials 101: Five fabrics for your bespoke suit

Materials 101: Five fabrics for your bespoke suit

At Exclusive Tailors you have a vast choice in materials, which can be a bit overwhelming at first. Our bespoke suits can be crafted from a selection of over 300 materials, with new collections being added (and replaced) constantly along the way, to always keep a range of stylish, fresh and up to date materials according to the different seasons and weather conditions around the globe. We therefore don’t blame any of our customers, if they’re feeling a bit drowsy, when they have a first glance on our material selection in-store. What we can guarantee you though is that you’ll end up with an educated choice, when you’re choosing a fabric for your next tailored garment from Exclusive Tailors, as we do take pride in providing all information necessary prior and after the purchase of our clients. We like to see ourself as a one-stop shop for style and wardrobe needs. That is also for those that are new to tailored clothing, those who are looking for a new style or a fit that works well with their body shape, activity level, usage and personal style.

To make things a little easier for you, who is not able to make it to our shop in Patong, Phuket, we’ve compiled this little guide about the most popular suit fabrics and their individual uses. Take a look and see which fabric would work best for you..


Wool has long been the most popular material with which to produce a tailored suit, and still remains so today. There are two distinct weaving techniques used in the production of wool suits, with worsted being the most common of the pair. Worsted suits employ combed wool fibres to produce a smooth finish, while woollens retain the loose fibres and thus boast a fluffier texture. Wool is comparatively cool, resistant to creasing and durable, making it ideal for use in tailored suits.


Cotton is also a very common fabric when it comes to the production of tailored suits in the United States or Asia, but for some reason, never has caught on in Europe. Cotton ‘seersucker’ suits are lightweight and useful for summer wear – hence their popularity in the sweltering Southern States.
Seersucker suits are characterised by fine pinstripes and a distinctive bobbled texture, while the properties of cotton mean that even bespoke suits can be machine-washed.


Linen suits have had their more popular dates, when every gentleman would have had at least one linen summer suit stored away in his wardrobe. Linen has the advantage to be extremely lightweight and breathable, making it ideal for the summer months, but the material isn’t particularly practical for year-round use, which disqualifies it from being an all-year round suit, unless you live in hotter temperatures, like parts of Asia, Southern US and perhaps Spain, Portugal and of course Latin America.
Linen has a tendency to crease easily, and the lightweight fabric also means that rips and tears can be difficult to avoid.


Tweed is more of an informal fabric for use in the manufacturing of bespoke suits, and is thus infrequently used in a business context. Tweed is a relatively thick and sturdy material – warmer than a standard wool suit – and comes in a variety of colours and patterns. Tweed is generally associated with gentle country pursuits and, while full tweed suits are rarely worn today, a bespoke tweed suit jacket can be an excellent addition to your informal wardrobe.


While silk is often used as a lining in tailored suit jackets, some suits can also be made from silk alone. Silk has a number of properties that makes it an excellent choice for a bespoke suit, with a natural lustre and supple movement making for an elegant garment.
Silk is a delicate material, however, and can be easily torn when wet, while the properties of the fabric means that silk suits can be quite clingy.

Each material comes with a range of advantages and disadvantages in the manufacture of bespoke suits, and depending on the intended purpose of your garment then different materials may be more suitable than other for your needs.

Contact us for a free style consultation, or take a look at our other blog topics for more information on the differences between tailored suits. Here you’ll find articles for both Ladies and Gents.