If you really ask yourself what makes up the most masculine uniform? What would your answer be?
The saying has it that the suit makes the man – but what actually makes a modern suit?
Suits can be considered as the uniform of men; well, unless you’re in the military that is. Let’s stay a bit in-militaristic in this article though.
The suit, the uniform of men, should mean to you that it is personal – your personal uniform. It should express unity in your individual style most of all.
At Exclusive Tailor, we think that a modern and all its components should be considered as a bit of a blank canvas to an artist. It’s time for you to truly express yourself. There’s the canvas – what to make out of it?
The choice of elements within a modern gentleman’s suit can take you places, but to achieve a look of an interesting, confident and creative gentleman, and not ‘just’ a business guy is not magically taking place by itself.
As a gentleman you’re bombarded with countless of options – and countless of ways to be confused by them.
There are the lapel styles, the pocket styles, vents, lining, … – and much more to consider.
The following article will give you the basic knowledge, so you can choose a great suit and help you express your unique style.
Shall we begin?
The most essential suit – The grey two-buttoned suit
Let’s start by offering you the most versatile staple that really should be in every gentleman’s wardrobe – the two-buttoned suit in grey hues.
If you are new to suiting or just looking to update your wardrobe, purchasing the grey two-button suit makes for a great start. Unlike the serious formality of a black suit, the grey suit remains its formality, but also adds an air of approachability. Wearing the grey two-button suit provides you with a classic foundation onto which you can add unique elements like a loud printed shirt, a bold necktie, or maybe even a new pair of shoes.
You’ll not want to add too much to the suit – but you’d rather want to complement it. A wool fabric will serve as the most versatile of choices; it’s resistant to wrinkling and is appropriate for every season. The 2-buttoned construction is quite the standard requirement when it comes to the modern day gentleman’s suit. The 3-buttoned variant of suits tend to create a bit of a too boxy frame. New trends in men’s suiting lean towards a trimmer fit, and slightly shorter jacket that accentuates a gentleman’s natural frame, giving a more contemporary and sleek look.
The grey 2-button suit is a great investment for those looking for new, updated, and timeless suiting.
Make sure that your suit fits
The fit is what takes a regular suit to one that truly stands out from the crowd.
Getting a suit tailored is the best solution, as you can individually choose everything about a suit, and you’ll be sure to get the best fit for yourself. If you however should not have the means to hire a tailor (which you should be able to with our fairly low prices), here are a few things to keep in mind, that can help in finding a suit well-fitted to your body.
If you are on the larger side of body sizes, we suggest you not invest in an oversized suit that will end up adding pounds to your appearance. If you want to draw the eye away from your stomach area, we suggest you to use a bright pocket square that draws away the eye up towards the chest and away from the midsection.
If you are short, be realistic about it and buy a shorter jacket for yourself. Wearing a jacket that is too long will end up making you look shorter and a tad sloppy – things you don’t want to be known for, or do you?
Whatever you body type, make sure that your sleeves allow a little of your shirt cuff to peek out (ideally .25″ -to .5″).
The fit of the shoulder is another crucial component that you should’t neglect. Make sure that your shoulder is neither too loose nor too tight.
There are various fits and styles for gent’s dress pants that can allow you to express your personal style, while also being mindful of your body type.
Knowing your true waist size and inseam is always the best place to start. If you need help with measuring that particular section, feel free to get in touch with us.
The decision between slim-fit versus straight-fit should generally be one you’ll make by realistically looking at our body type. If you have a thinner build, a slim-fit will give you a sharp and clean look.
If you have a heavier build, a straight-fit can give you a contemporary feel without looking too tight.
As a general rule, try to avoid pleats, as they can make you look heavier and your pants look excessively loose. Instead, why not opt for flat-front pants? The pant break is another element of dress pants that is highly critical, and can be expressive.
A medium pant break that results in a half of a complete fold where the pant leg hits the shoe is the general standard for business suits, but a pant with no break is being seen more often on the well-dressed contemporary man. You can adjust the break of your pants by having a tailor like us customise it.
Don’t Forget the Details
The success of a perfectly fitting suit often lies in the details, so they must not be neglected when you’re out to choose a suit. Choosing the details of your suit is just as important as choosing color, material and fit, so gentlemen, be aware.
The lapel tends to be the focal point of a suit jacket.
The common lapel for everyday office wear is the standard notch lapel which comes in various type of widths. A lapel that is on the slimmer side is in fashion currently, and will give you a more modern look.
Other lapels styles, like the peak lapel and the shawl lapel, can be worn to dress-up or dress-down a suit for different occasions, or to express personal style.
The dress shirt that you end up choosing plays a pivotal part in the overall appearance of your outfit, and should be treated with the same care.
Buying a well-fitted dress shirt requires your correct neck and arm-length measurements that can’t usually be summed up by small, medium, and large.
When out there choosing dress shirt, make sure that the neck fit abides by the one-finger rule: you should be able to fit one finger in between the collar and your neck. This allows you to retain sharpness while maintaining comfort. Find a dress shirt that fits close to your torso in order to create a sleek line. Different collar styles can also be used to express yourself or complement your features.
Dress for the Season
If you’re looking for a reliable alternative to the grey suit, try to opt for different fabrics, that in turn will keep your wardrobe more relevant and comfortable.
Spring and Summer season can be a very uncomfortable time for wearing suits, however, by integrating more cotton fabrics into your suiting such as khaki, seersucker, and linen – you can make your mark as a modern man while also staying comfortable in the heat.
When one thinks of khaki, a flood of boring beige comes to mind.
But fear not, khaki is available for suits in several different interesting colours such as blue and white (which are a great palette for spring and summer.)
A seersucker suit can be a bold seasonal statement that can be paired down with a subtle shirt and tie. Wearing a tie made of Linen with a suit that you already own can be a festive addition that shows that you are fashion savvy. In the colder months, instead try the sophisticated look of flannel, corduroy, and tweed. These fabrics will not only keep you warmer, but also give a dash of festivity and dapper style.
Opt for a Bold Suit
A bold man may need a bold suit. Though it can be easily overdone, it does not mean an attempt should be altogether avoided. Plaids, bold tweeds, pinstripes, and colours can all be a part of your repertoire by balancing them with your other pieces. Unification and editing is key when composing an ensemble. Pinstripes should remain on the thinner side—larger pinstripes can look extremely outdated, distracting, and can distort your body. Coloured suits are also an easy way to make a style statement.
When choosing color, it is best to still stay within the neutral range: navy, cream, maroon, even dark green. You can opt for pairing a coloured jacket with black or grey pants. Dressing in an audacious way shouldn’t come at the expense of sophistication. Keep in mind that wearing a bold suit takes balance and confidence.
Make sure to accessorise your suit
A suit can be made minimal or more elaborate by choosing the appropriate accessories.
Accessories will make sure to complete and personalise your outfit.
If you want to add to some louder pieces to your suit without the risk of looking overdone, we recommend going bolder with one or two elements.
The tie bar is a classic way to keep your necktie out of your way and also create a put together look. If you’re the ‘french cuff kind of guy’, you can define your persona even further by choosing a great pair of cufflinks. Whether they express your polish or your individuality, always make sure that they remain an accent to the ensemble rather than the focus of it.
You could wear a bright pair of socks that peak out from under pant leg when you sit down or cross your legs. Don’t forget the value of a great pocket square either.
Knowing how to pair a tie with your suit is key to centring your outfit.
The necktie gives a long vertical line down your torso, creating a slimming effect that can be an added bonus to those with a broader frame. When choosing a tie, keep in mind your whole ensemble. If nostalgia is what you crave, the bow tie is an attractive if slightly quirky option.
Now that you are armed with suiting know-how, go forth and conquer my fine gentleman! We hope that you’ve enjoyed our little guide and that you could take with you a thing or two.
Keep following our blog for other relevant style-, fashion- and wardrobe know-how’s, so you’ll be sure to always stay in touch – no matter the weather or occasion.