Five fabrics for your bespoke suit

Materials 101: Five fabrics for your bespoke suit

At Exclusive Tailors you have a vast choice in materials, which can be a bit overwhelming at first. Our bespoke suits can be crafted from a selection of over 300 materials, with new collections being added (and replaced) constantly along the way, to always keep a range of stylish, fresh and up to date materials according to the different seasons and weather conditions around the globe. We therefore don’t blame any of our customers, if they’re feeling a bit drowsy, when they have a first glance on our material selection in-store. What we can guarantee you though is that you’ll end up with an educated choice, when you’re choosing a fabric for your next tailored garment from Exclusive Tailors, as we do take pride in providing all information necessary prior and after the purchase of our clients. We like to see ourself as a one-stop shop for style and wardrobe needs. That is also for those that are new to tailored clothing, those who are looking for a new style or a fit that works well with their body shape, activity level, usage and personal style.

To make things a little easier for you, who is not able to make it to our shop in Patong, Phuket, we’ve compiled this little guide about the most popular suit fabrics and their individual uses. Take a look and see which fabric would work best for you..

Wool

Wool has long been the most popular material with which to produce a tailored suit, and still remains so today. There are two distinct weaving techniques used in the production of wool suits, with worsted being the most common of the pair. Worsted suits employ combed wool fibres to produce a smooth finish, while woollens retain the loose fibres and thus boast a fluffier texture. Wool is comparatively cool, resistant to creasing and durable, making it ideal for use in tailored suits.

Cotton

Cotton is also a very common fabric when it comes to the production of tailored suits in the United States or Asia, but for some reason, never has caught on in Europe. Cotton ‘seersucker’ suits are lightweight and useful for summer wear – hence their popularity in the sweltering Southern States.
Seersucker suits are characterised by fine pinstripes and a distinctive bobbled texture, while the properties of cotton mean that even bespoke suits can be machine-washed.

Linen

Linen suits have had their more popular dates, when every gentleman would have had at least one linen summer suit stored away in his wardrobe. Linen has the advantage to be extremely lightweight and breathable, making it ideal for the summer months, but the material isn’t particularly practical for year-round use, which disqualifies it from being an all-year round suit, unless you live in hotter temperatures, like parts of Asia, Southern US and perhaps Spain, Portugal and of course Latin America.
Linen has a tendency to crease easily, and the lightweight fabric also means that rips and tears can be difficult to avoid.

Tweed

Tweed is more of an informal fabric for use in the manufacturing of bespoke suits, and is thus infrequently used in a business context. Tweed is a relatively thick and sturdy material – warmer than a standard wool suit – and comes in a variety of colours and patterns. Tweed is generally associated with gentle country pursuits and, while full tweed suits are rarely worn today, a bespoke tweed suit jacket can be an excellent addition to your informal wardrobe.

Silk

While silk is often used as a lining in tailored suit jackets, some suits can also be made from silk alone. Silk has a number of properties that makes it an excellent choice for a bespoke suit, with a natural lustre and supple movement making for an elegant garment.
Silk is a delicate material, however, and can be easily torn when wet, while the properties of the fabric means that silk suits can be quite clingy.

Each material comes with a range of advantages and disadvantages in the manufacture of bespoke suits, and depending on the intended purpose of your garment then different materials may be more suitable than other for your needs.

Contact us for a free style consultation, or take a look at our other blog topics for more information on the differences between tailored suits. Here you’ll find articles for both Ladies and Gents.


Fashion tips for men: Dressing according to your body shape

All of us gents have an independent body shape, which can be a blessing, a challenge or a burden. It can make off-the-rack shopping to a horrendous experience, a walk in the park or, we repeat – a challenge.
You’ve probably heard the terms hourglass figure, pear and apple shapes before, when talking about body shapes. While this is not a topic that is high on our gents priority list, when talking to the chaps at the local bar, this however can serve as an indicator for what type of shopping you should be doing, when the time comes for shopping clothes.

The struggle about fit

Men’s body shape is important when deciding what to buy and wear. Not all clothes work for everyone. As a tailor-shop, we know as well as anyone the importance of a well-fitting, flattering garment. This article will therefore take a look at how gents can dress to suit according to their shape, whether it’s for everyday use, fashion tips or if you’re planning to get a wedding outfit, where you of course want to look and feel great. Let’s get into the different body shapes and how you can use it to your advantage.

The inverted Triangle

If you’re one of those gents with broad shoulders and narrow hips, then we cheer you – you’re a guy with an inverted triangle body shape! This body shape is quite easy to dress, but to balance the shoulders out, you may wish to use detailing to your advantage. Same goes for wide legged trousers, to even out your heavier top half of your body. Opt for fitted or tapered shirts, so they don’t hang off you like boxy tents. Never opt for padded shoulders. Double-breasted suit jackets should be avoided too.

The rectangle

If you’re one of the gents with a rectangle body shape where your chest, hips, and shoulders are of a similar width, then suits with padded shoulders will work well for you. Paired with lighter suit colors, it will also give the impression of broad shoulders. Wearing slim trousers will further work to make you look less rectangular. Layering will add bulk to your shoulders and give your torso a more defined shape.

The triangle

Are you equipped with wider hips and narrow shoulders? You may not have been aware all this time but – you’re a triangle. You’re bulkier around your stomach and slimmer at your chest and shoulders. In order to dress for this body shape, you’ll want to use many of the same tricks we covered under the rectangle section, to make your shoulders appear bulkier than they actually are.
Clothes must be well fitted, but not too tight. Ill-fitting clothes on a triangle body shape will only emphasise the bulk around your stomach – not something you’ll want.

The Oval body shape

If you’ve one of those gents with a larger stomach and your body appears round, you’re an oval. No issues. With this body shape, to dress as an oval, you want to direct the attention of the eyes to your shoulders and chest instead – away from your stomach. Wear V-necks and vertical stripes to slim down your torso, and choose low-rise trousers that sit around your hips rather than your waist. Don’t bulk up your frame with too many layers, or wear exuberant patterned shirts – a mistake way too many gents do, when they try to cover up their wealth around the gut.

The trapezoid shape

The trapezoid body shape sounds like something taken out of the circus or mathclass, but is actually extremely similar to the inverted triangle, with a moderate width waist rather than a narrow waist. This body shape is the easiest of all to dress for, and provided your clothes fit you well, you can get away with wearing pretty much whatever you want – so feel free to experiment with your favourite colours and patterns.

At Exclusive Tailors we craft your suits from the the ground up, which takes your body shape, design preferences and personal style into account. Which these options and educated choices, you’ll be sure that your bespoke suit accommodates you perfectly according to your personal style, wearability and taste.

Book an appointment with us today to get started. Find more information on how to get in touch with us here!