Style-crimes a groom should never commit

Style-crimes a groom should never commit

The wedding season is almost over, but the next one is just around the corner. When there is not a summer wedding on the horizon, you can bet that the next Fall wedding is just around the corner. You know what that means. There are going to be many grooms to be that are hoping to ace their role to perfection on their big day, and there are going to be many guys that will commit style-crimes that should get them straight to fashion-jail, if there’d be one. Are you planning a wedding and looking to get inspired for your role as a groom, you’re probably trying to prepare not to be one of those guys doing the wrong things. Very good. A well-prepared groom is one that is less likely to fall for these pitfalls of style that we’ll focus on in this article. The pressure is already high, the blood pressure is reaching a point of a marathon-runner after 10-20 miles of uphill-running, and you are feeling dizzy, well – welcome to the world of being a groom! We have however gathered a small list of style mistakes you should never make, so you get one step closer to become the perfect groom-to-be.

“I don’t mind”

If your partner is asking about your opinion, and chances are that she will, since it probably is the biggest day of your lifes as a couple, don’t ever give her the vague and neutral answer “I don’t mind”. It will sound like that you don’t care, and even if it is the case, since you’ve been through a lot of planning and shopping, don’t ever show that you’re not interested. Remember that she most likely has a dream wedding in mind (and probably had since she was a little girl), so every bit of detail about it will probably mean a lot to her than you may realise.
Don’t be a “yes” man, but instead offer an opinion, so she will feel that the decisions she’ll make are being supported by you. Also try to offer an alternative solution, if you really just are against the idea she is proposing. You better learn that already. Show compassion, state your opinion and take a stance for or against it – you are a team – this is a team-effort.

Make the right choices on suits

Never, never settle for an ill-fitting suit. This goes without saying, since this is your big day, but make sure that your suit is well-fitted. This is the most important suit in your life – so make it count. Go the extra mile. Make sure that you not only look good, but instead look your very best, while also feeling comfortable in your attire for the special day. Trust us, a perfectly fitted suit will certainly make you feel like the star that night, the best dressed man – the one that has found an union with his suit (without stealing the attention from your bride of course).

Don’t ever make any purchases without your partners consent

You probably feel like you’re taking an active part, dealing with your wedding suit like the man you are, but don’t ever make this decision without consulting your wife to be first. There is, just like with many things in your future, a good chance that she will want to coordinate your looks, so don’t go out and choose anything that maks you look fancy, without any regard for what she wants. It won’t go down too well, so save yourself from that, before having to deal with it later (and you will hear for it, we promise).

You don’t need any disagreements about this, not at this stage, not ever. It will waste the precious time there is to plan the perfect wedding.

Don’t leave alterations to the last minute

If you already have a suit that you’d like to wear for the wedding, but it needs some adjustments because it magically shrunk somehow, make sure to get it done in good time. With a bit of self-discipline, chances are that your body won’t change drastically in a few weeks, so cross this point of your list as soon as you can.
The same goes if you’re having a custom-made suit crafted from scratch. You’ll want to make sure to give it at least 2-3 weeks to get done.

Keep your best man under control

The wedding day is to be celebrated, definitely. It should however be done in a way that is respectful to both families, yours and the brides – not to forget, all the other guests who are going to attend. Have a word with your best man beforehand, so you can outline a bit of a “plan of action” and “no go’s”, so you’ll avoid them planning anything that may seem unacceptable to attendants at the wedding.

These are only a few pointers to lead you in the right direction. Follow these and it will help you that everything runs smoothly in the preparation up to your big day.

Enjoy the wedding!


Formal wear tips - for the ladies

Formal wear tips – for the ladies

You are finding heaps of information, tips and guides for men on the internet when it comes to tailoring, fashion and style. There is however quite a lack of articles and useful information when it comes to the female readers on blogs and forums around the internet. Why is that? Are females in general better at finding inspiration themselves? Do they just know what is in style and know each and every detail they’d like to include in their custom-tailored garments, is there just no market for the female audience, or is it simply a field that is getting neglected?

To be fair, we do a lot of writing for gents too (stay tuned – many more articles in the pipeline, waiting to be published), but that is mainly because we feel that gents tend to have more questions prior to their orders, so we try to accommodate them by including their inquiries in articles about the different subjects. We find that quite a lot of females are following our website, but they don’t make a fraction of those inquiries compared to men. There’s a huge market for the female audience, but it is just not being catered to enough – sadly.

We’ll try to change that by writing articles targeted towards women, from evening dresses, wedding dresses, do’s and dont’s and of course about the centrepiece of tailoring – the work suits. We do that in hope for our female readership to take it in and use it as an inspiration for their next orders – so they are educated about every single detail that goes into a custom-tailored garment – no matter the choice of clothing. Habits however will more often than not guide you to the topic we know most about – and those are suits and dresses, whether it’s for formal or casual wear. This one will be all about formal wear – let’s get into it.

 

What makes a well-fitted suit

Knowing what makes a well-fitted suit is important in order to look good and also helps you to determine what you want when you’re having a tailor-made suit crafted for yourself. Every good tailor will make sure that you’re suited and fitted well, but knowing what makes a well-fitted suit will offer you that extra self-assurance that you’re really looking your absolute best.

We’ve looked at how each element of a suit should sit to form a perfect look for any formal occasion.

The Blazer

Among the fundamentals of the suit, the blazer takes a big part of the look and impression. The blazer in fact is the key element of the suit, so getting it right will define how your look is being perceived and how well-complimented your body shape is in your overall look. If it’s oversized, it will make your body look out of proportions and if it is too small you’ll be making the garment look like it is gasping for air. Getting it right, in the right proportions is therefore crucial in order to achieve a perfect look.
Out of the key points on a blazer is that the shoulders are not wider than they need to be. If the shoulders on the blazer extend too far in width, they’ll have you look broader than you actually are – and that seldom is an something you’d want.
While ensuring your shoulders are snug, make sure you also allow for room to manoeuvre your arms, a well fitted blazer should also allow for comfort so make sure you don’t feel restricted.
Talking about arm length, the guide lines are clear for the men, but for women however, you have more freedom with anywhere between the wrist and the top knuckle of the thumb being seen as suitable.
If your choice
Another area that women need to consider is the area around their bust. When dressing for a formal occasion then you’ll ideally want your blazer able to be buttoned, which means that it will need to be able close comfortably.
If it’s at a strain as a result of your bust it will not only look untidy, but also draw the wrong kind of attention on that area. Just bear in mind that it is widely accepted to just close the top button of your blazer.

The trousers

The length of your trousers right can be very tricky, in particular if you are planning to wear them paired with shoes of different heights. That is something that is somewhat an unique issue for women, when trying to find the right trousers for their suited look. Many women choose trousers that reach up to an inch off the floor and it’s fine when you’re wearing high-heels, it can also lead to the trousers “catching” the floor when you choose to wear them with flat shoes, which leads to worn out trousers on the back of your trousers. This certainly won’t impress anyone at a formal event.

You therefore have a bit of limits about your choice of footwear when it comes to suit trousers. A good way to get around this is to have the trousers cropped just above the ankles, allowing them to look good with both heels and flat shoes.

Last, but not least – the skirt

Well, the good old skirt is, similar to with your blazer arm length, important in helping to maintain a formal look, which is appropriate for most formal events. If you need a general rule to abide to, then ensure that the skirt is long enough to reach your knees. We definitely would recommend something that sits just the knees, just to play it safe.

When it comes to formal wear, there is always a need to be more reserved with your dress compared to your everyday work- or leisurewear. That goes for both the colors you choose to the fit of your suit.

At Exclusive Tailor we can help you with all your inquiries and questions you may have, before and after your purchase. See us as a style-guide, not “just” a tailor-shop. We’ll gladly help you to choose the right design, make sure that the measurements are correct and your up to speed when it comes to the latest fashion trends.

If you are looking for the perfect look for the next formal event, please feel free to get in touch with us!


Summer style mistakes

Summer style mistakes

It is Summer – yes it is. Well, in some part of the world it is. For many the Summer so far has been a mix in weathers, but it’s Summer nonetheless, so you better dress the part – that is, if the weather allows it.

It’s too early for your winter wardrobe, so out comes the Summer wardrobe, if its not out already/still. It’s still time to impress those colleagues of yours, and the ladies of course, with your Summer fashion that you’ve in store.

No Summer without a few Summer style mistakes though, but we’ve summed up

the most common ones that you’ll want to avoid, in order to make sure to look your best, all summer long.

Short shorts

When being tempted to wear shorts, make sure that they don’t end up looking like hot pants. While you may find it sexy and attractive (if your confidence allows it), it’s not sure that everyone else thinks the same. Better stick to a pair of shorts that fall just above the knees – for your own sake, and everyone else around you.

All black layering

The colder months are optimal for the more muted color-range for your wardrobe, but greys and black colors can and should be switched out with lighter, more friendly colors for the Summer.
Allow your outfit to reflect the Season. Opt for brighter, lighter colors. It will not only help you lift your outfit and presence, but it will also reflect the heat far better than darker colors are able to.

The standard black socks

During the winter you’ll usually require a cosy pair of socks, all snuck and comfy, and with most suiting being black, grey or navy colored, chances are that most of your sucks are quite similar in color. A quick look in your drawer will confirm that, right?
That’s fine for most of the year, but during Summer, the last thing you’ll want to wear is a pair of dark sock standing out in your outfit. A typical fashion faux pas. Instead, try invisible socks, or get yourself a few pairs in lighter colors.

Tight jeans? Really?

Since we’ve mentioned that lighter colors are what you should be aiming for, we didn’t mean jeans. A pair of tight, white jeans may not – no – will not do you any favours. It will not make you look sophisticated – it will make you look odd and like you’re trying too hard, and you don’t want that, do you?

Too. Much. Chest.

We get you. It’s hot. You want to cool down, but there’s just nothing that is classy about unbuttoning half of the shirt to let the belly and/or the chest-hair come out freely. You are not a male model, and we’re not in the 90’s anymore – sadly. Why not keep your cool by opting for a lighter fabric, or a short-sleeved shirt? See, that’s better compared to going full out gorilla.

The same also applies for many vests. If you find yourself on the beach then you’re forgiven, but it really shouldn’t be a look you try to pull off anywhere else unless you’re wearing a shirt over it.

The Footwear

If the sun stands high and is relentlessly shining down on you, it is to set aside those dress shoes and switch it out with something more appropriate. Opt for a pair of loafers instead. Maybe even boat shoes, that will allow your feet to breathe and enjoy the Summer too.

For those of you Gentlemen that are eager to pull on their flip-flops, please reconsider. Please? They’ll rarely make a pretty sight and throw up more questions than you may like and be ready to give answers to.
Leave those for the holidays, or when you’re wandering around in your garden, at home.

Conclusion

Your winter clothing habits have nothing to do with your Summer looks. Keep what we’ve mentioned in mind and you’ll be well on your way for a stylish Sumer.
Remember, there’s a very thin and fine line between a classy summer look, and looking your part of a 90’s boyband, so choose your clothes with class in mind, Gents.


Formal fashion first impression

Formal fashion, first impression

Imagine yourself being in this situation. You meet up for a business meeting in a conference room full of sharp suits and ties. You of course prepared carefully and came to the meeting wearing a suit as well, but why is it that you can’t get rid of the feeling that you’re being watched and people are smiling a bit mockingly at you?
You’re looking down at yourself to make a quick check-up, but you don’t notice anything out of the norm – so why are they smiling? It probably makes you uncomfortable, right? Maybe it is because your suit is a little too big or small for you, maybe it is because of the tie that is out of proportions, or maybe it is the way you chose to match your dress shirt with your suit this morning – who knows. Maybe it is also a piece of toilet paper that is attached to your shoes. There are countless of ways to mess up your look (and presentation) by choosing the wrong dresscode for the day.
First impressions are really crucial for any given event that you’re attending to. It can often lead to people developing an opinion of you before you’ve even spoken the first word. Much of our first impression stems from the way we walk, what we wear and how we present ourselves. That is why it is so important that you dress well, and look the part in order to ensure that nothing but positive impressions are drawn from you, from the very first sight.

We’ve looked at a few things that you can do in order to make a right first impression for a range of occasions.
Dress the part
It goes without saying really, but you need to ensure that you’re not only dressed well, but exceptionally well, whilst of course dress appropriate for the event you’re attending to. If you’re invited for a formal networking event, like we often are invited to, business attire is a mist, just like when you’re going on a first date in a fine dining restaurant – the sharp outfit should be the first thing she’ll notice.
To add to that, dressing well is really not only what you wear and how you pair it with other items, but moreover about how it fits you. You could be de dressed in top notch designer clothing made from the finest fabrics there exists, but if it fits like a bag of potatoes, then you’ll find yourself at odds trying to look good (very few can pull off a good look in a sack of potatoes).
This is often the case, for those people that don’t have what may be classified as a “regular” body shape (that’s most of us). For instance, men who are slim and have long limbs can really struggle buying off-the-rack jackets, which are fitted around the torso, while also being a good fit in length on the arms and shoulders.

Custom-tailored garments can really help you overcome this hurdle, and offer you the perfect solution in order to ensure that your clothes not solely provide the best possible fit, but also flatter your body more than the ready-made alternatives are able to.

Accessorise wisely

When it comes to accessories, you need to think thoroughly about what you match it with. Too little make it drown, too much will make you look like a Christmas tree. When teaming up accessories with formal outfits, they to be suited to the event you’re attending to. There isn’t a one-rule fits all for this, but in many cases the best look will be determined by what you wear and the occasion itself. Which pieces of accessories should you consider, you’re asking? The range is quite elaborate, from ties and cufflinks to watches, belts and even dress shoes. If you choose to attend to a business dinner, wear a nice watch and a pair of nice dress shoes for instance, or for a networking event, wear a subtle watch together with a nice tie that fits to your plain-colored shirt and dark suit. If you’re in for the business meeting, don’t over-accessorise, but instead wear nice striped tie, a pair of cufflinks and perhaps your most shiny dress shoes that you have in your wardrobe.

 

Confinde does the trick

Your parents have probably taught you this, and it is true, confidence and charisma are priceless traits to have, when it comes to polishing off your look. You can wear even the best fitting suit made from only the best materials, but if you enter the room with a body language that screams “is this the right room?”, then it is to no use. Enter the room, own the room. You’re one of a kind, a king of your own, so show others what you already know – show them what you’re made of.

This is a trait that comes natural to some, yet is a big challenge for others. It is something that you can practice, maybe even fake, if you know what to do. Walking with a straight posture, making eye contact and greeting your counterparts with a firm handshake, you’ll help make a good first impression.

It’s always good to keep in mind that you’ll be wanting to come off as being confident and approachable as opposed to being cocky. There’s a fine line between these two, especially when you’re dressed to impress.
Final note

Those are a few pointers to have in mind when trying to make a good first impression. A good rule to have in the back of your mind is also that if you believe that you look good, then chances are that you’ll also feel good, which naturally should give you a better stance. Next thing is to say the right things, but that is not something your clothes can help you with – that depends on the right preparation, but we’re sure that you’ve got that under control already.

Good luck with your upcoming events and meetings, Gents!

For all your tailoring needs, quotations and questions, please do get in touch with us here: Contact Us


The tailored solution for men of all sizes and shapes

The tailored solution for men of all sizes and shapes

Your reason for opening this link to our blog with this precisely this topic, is probably because you’re struggling to find a suit that fits you in a flattering way, or because you’re curious about how a suit should fit. We get you.
We understand. And you’re right. This article is all about that, on the path to finding the suit that best compliments you and your unique body shape (everyone has their own shape, and that’s great)

In the world of custom-tailored suits there really isn’t one body type that does not look good in a suit. Everyone can look great in a suit, literally – everyone!
It all depends on your choice in what you’re looking for.
We’ve listed a few common issues that many men find with the way their suit fits them, and how a custom-tailored suit can overcome these issues.

Let’s get right into it.

For gents with broad shoulders

With slim fit being the latest fashion trend for ready-made off-the-rack suits, it can easily make your life a bit difficult if you’re equipped with a pair of broad shoulders. The shoulders are after all one of the most important elements in a suit, as it determines much of the fit, and can get you from perfect fit to a broken look in a heartbeat. When other gents look at you, when you’re showing up at a party, one of the first thing the suit-savvy guys will notice. are your shoulders. The shoulders are among one of the key factors to distinguish a well-tailored suit to an off-the-rack solution.

The seam on your jacket shoulder should sit neatly on top of where your arm meets your body. If it’s wider, and you see the sleeves slacking, whereas, when it is tighter, you’ll notice that it will cause creases along the jacket front.
An extra style tip for gents with broader shoulders is to steer away from jackets with narrow lapels, as they can often ruin the proportions of the suit and make you look even broader yet, because of the relative small size of the lapel.

For taller or slimmer gents

You’re one of the taller gentlemen with a bit longer limbs? Then the chances are that you’ve come across some off-the-rack suits that makes you look drowned and result in making you loose the shape that your body may have.

Also, many of these off-the-rack suits often don’t fit appropriately in terms of length. Most often it leaves you no choice, but to buy a size too large in order to fit your arms and legs – or settle with the fact that it’ll fall too short.

Since we imagine that you don’t want to look like a sack, a custom-tailored suit can be crafted for you in order to allow the right amount of space around your arms and legs, while also providing just the slightest nip along the body, to give the suit a little more shape. That would also fix the length of the arms, so you don’t have to worry about that again.
A general rule to follow is that 1-2 cm of your shirt cuff should show from under the jacket sleeve, so you’ll want it to sit neatly around your wrist bone. Take note, gentlemen.

For the gentlemen with a bit of extra padding

Some of us gentlemen put a bit of padding on throughout the years of good dinners, barbecues and weddings (the author of this article is a victim to that himself). There’s nothing wrong in that.

If you’re among these with a little extra on your rips, you should not make the mistake to try to hide it by wearing over-sized clothing. A mistake way too many gents fall for these days. It most likely makes you look even larger than you actually are. Instead of experimenting too much, make the right choice and get the suit custom-tailored to your exact body measurements, or at least get the off-the-rack suit you’ve bought fitted at a local alteration shop. The choice of color for your suit also plays in here. Darker colors are known to make you look slimmer, so opting for a darker colored suit is a good rule to follow, when looking for a new suit.

When looking at patterns, there’s a lot of skepticism about the efficiency of strips as to achieving a slimming look.
Some people think that vertical strips can help you achieving a slimmer look, while other swear of horizontal stripes doing the exact same trick. Nonetheless what you believe in, consider it before you purchase the next suit.
Keep in mind that looking good stems from the fact that you’re feeling good, so if you put on an off-the-rack suit, or even a custom-tailored one, and it doesn’t feel great – don’t buy it. Stick with what you’re comfortable wearing. It’s your suit, your choice. You should feel good in it. Period.

When determining whether a suit fits you, test it by standing upright and close the buttons. You should see that the front of your jacket should flow down your body, allowing just enough room to place a palm within it. If the lapels are flaring away from you, chances are that the suit is too tight. If you can fit your whole fist in with ease, then chances are high that the suit is too large for you.

Final note

There are many issues as to finding the right suit according to your body type. This is just a small selection of the most common ones. With a custom-tailored suit however, you’d ensure that your suit fits perfectly to your body shape. With a custom suit made just for you, there is no chance for you to face many of the issues mentioned above.

Choose a suit and shirts that really fit you well, to flatter your figure the best way possible. It will not only make you look sharp, it will make you feel great too!

To get more style tips, visit one of our other blog topics at: www.exclusivetailor.com/dress-guide